Georgia · Signature dish

Satsivi

Cold turkey in spiced walnut sauce

Poached and roasted turkey bathed in a velvety, ivory sauce of ground walnuts, garlic, blue fenugreek, coriander, marigold and a breath of cinnamon and clove, served cold.

Satsivi

Satsivi means, quite simply, cold dish, and it is the centerpiece of the Georgian winter feast. A bird is poached, its broth is kept, and the meat is laid in a pale, pourable sauce of walnuts ground with garlic and onion and seasoned with blue fenugreek, coriander, dried marigold petals, a little cinnamon and clove and a splash of vinegar. It is left to cool and set overnight, and it is eaten cold, when the spices have settled into something round and quietly complex. For Christmas and New Year it is traditionally made with turkey; for the rest of the year, chicken is the usual choice.

The sauce is the dish, and the bird is almost an excuse for it. Georgians mop it up with cornbread or bread, and any left in the bowl is guarded more jealously than the meat. It rewards the cook who plans ahead, which suits the race weekend: it is finished the day before and needs nothing at all on the day except a serving spoon and the self control not to eat it straight from the fridge.

The turkey

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The walnut sauce

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Assembling and chilling

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