Elarji is the pride of Samegrelo, the green, humid region of western Georgia that also gave the world sulguni cheese. It begins as ghomi, a thick, plain porridge of coarse white cornmeal, the region's everyday staple since maize replaced millet a few centuries ago. Then a great deal of sulguni is worked into it, over the heat, with a strong wooden spoon and a stronger arm, until the cheese melts and the whole pot turns elastic, smooth and shiny. Shepherds once made it in the mountains; today it is cooked for honored guests and festive tables.

It is served hot, sometimes with bazhe, a walnut sauce, and it stretches impressively when pulled with a fork. On a race weekend it is a showpiece side for grilled meat or shkmeruli, and the stirring gives at least one guest something useful to do with their hands.

The ghomi

Ingredients

• 1 cup (170 g) coarse white cornmeal or white grits
• 4 cups (960 ml) water
• 2 tablespoons (16 g) cornstarch or fine corn flour
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt

Method

1. Put the cornmeal in the pot, cover with cold water, swirl and carefully pour off the cloudy water and anything floating. Repeat twice.
2. Add the 4 cups water and bring to a boil over medium high heat, stirring so it does not clump. Turn the heat to low and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring every few minutes and scraping the bottom.
3. Stir the cornstarch mixture again and whisk it into the porridge. Cook, stirring, for 3 minutes.

The cheese

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 lb (680 g) sulguni or low moisture mozzarella

Method

1. Keep the pot over low heat. Add about a third of the cheese and beat it in hard with the wooden spoon, pressing it against the sides of the pot. When it has melted, add the next third, then the last.
2. Keep beating, lifting and folding for 5 to 8 minutes, pulling the spoon up high out of the pot.

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