Badrijani nigvzit, eggplant with walnuts, is on almost every Georgian table, from the grandest supra to the plainest family supper. Long slices of eggplant are fried until soft and golden, spread with a paste of ground walnuts, garlic, vinegar and the warm Georgian spices, then rolled up and finished with pomegranate seeds and cilantro. The rolls are served cool, never warm, and they are among the first things to arrive when a feast begins and among the first to vanish.

They are also quietly practical. They are bite size, need no cutlery, travel well in a box and taste better after a night in the fridge, which makes them the ideal thing to hand round while everyone finds their seat for the formation lap. They happen to be vegan and gluten free as well, which is the kind of versatility most teams can only dream of in a driver.

The fried eggplant

Ingredients

• 3 long eggplants
• 2 teaspoons fine salt
• about 2/3 cup (160 ml) sunflower or vegetable oil

Method

1. Cut the stem end off each eggplant. Stand it on the board and cut lengthwise into slices about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Discard the two outer slices that are mostly skin, or fry them for the cook to eat.
2. Lay the slices in the colander or on the trays and sprinkle both sides with the salt. Leave them for 30 minutes, then press each slice firmly between paper towels or a clean kitchen towel to squeeze out the moisture.
3. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in the frying pan over medium heat until it shimmers. Lay in as many slices as fit in one layer and fry for 2 to 3 minutes per side, turning once, then lift them onto the rack. Add a little more oil for each batch, letting it heat before the slices go in.
4. Let the slices cool on the rack for at least 20 minutes. Blot the tops with paper towels to remove excess oil.

The walnut paste

Ingredients

• 1 3/4 cups (175 g) walnut halves
• 3 garlic cloves
• 1 teaspoon khmeli suneli
• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon blue fenugreek (utskho suneli)
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt
• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar
• 4 to 6 tablespoons (60 to 90 ml) cold water
• 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro

Method

1. Put the walnuts, garlic, khmeli suneli, coriander, blue fenugreek, cayenne and salt in the food processor and blend for about 1 minute, scraping down the sides once.
2. Add the vinegar and 4 tablespoons of water and blend again for 1 minute. Add more water a tablespoon at a time until smooth and spreadable, then pulse in the chopped cilantro.
3. Taste the paste with a little piece of eggplant. Add more salt, vinegar or cayenne if it needs it; it should be bold, because the eggplant is mild.

Rolling and garnish

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup (80 g) pomegranate seeds
• 1 small handful fresh cilantro leaves

Method

1. Lay a cooled eggplant slice on the board with the wider end toward you. Spread about 1 heaped tablespoon of walnut paste over it in a thin, even layer, leaving a small border at the narrow end.
2. Starting at the wide end, roll the slice up firmly but gently, then set it seam side down on the platter. Repeat with the rest of the slices.
3. Press a few pomegranate seeds onto the top of each roll and scatter the platter with cilantro leaves. Cover and chill for at least 30 minutes, or up to a day, then let them sit out for 10 minutes before serving.

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