France · Sweet finish

Tarte normande

Normandy apple and cream custard tart

Fanned apple slices set in a golden custard of cream, eggs and a splash of Calvados, in a crisp butter crust: dessert from the orchards around Rouen.

Tarte normande

Normandy is apple country and dairy country, and the tarte normande is what happens when the two meet in one dish. Apples are laid in a pastry case, half baked, then bathed in a custard of eggs, sugar and thick Norman cream, often scented with Calvados, the region's apple brandy. Rouen, the Norman capital, hosted five French Grands Prix on its sweeping road course among the woods above the Seine, and this is the dessert a Rouennais would have served afterwards.

It is a forgiving tart. The apples need no precise arrangement, though a neat ring looks wonderful, and the custard fills any gaps the cook leaves. Serve it warm, when the custard is soft and fragrant; it is also excellent cold the next morning, a fact many cooks discover by accident.

The pastry case

Ingredients

Method

  1. Mix the flour, sugar and salt in the large bowl. Add the butter and rub it in with your fingertips for 3 to 4 minutes. Beat the yolk with 2 tablespoons water, pour it over and stir with a fork, then press into a dough with your hand, adding the last spoonful of water only if needed.
  2. Flatten into a disc 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
  3. On a lightly floured counter, roll the dough from the center out, turning it often, into a 12 inch (30 cm) circle about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick. Roll it around the pin, lay it over the pan and ease it into the corners without stretching. Roll the pin over the top to trim. Prick the base with a fork and refrigerate 20 minutes. Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C) with the baking sheet on the middle rack.
  4. Line the case with parchment, fill with beans and bake on the hot sheet for 15 minutes. Lift out the paper and beans and bake 5 minutes more.

The apples

Ingredients

Method

  1. Peel the apples, cut them into quarters, cut out the cores, and cut each quarter into 3 or 4 slices about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick.
  2. Arrange the slices in the warm case in overlapping circles, rounded edges outward, starting at the edge and working in. Brush with the melted butter and sprinkle with the sugar. Bake for 20 minutes.

The custard

Ingredients

Method

  1. In the medium bowl, whisk the eggs and sugar for 1 minute. Whisk in the flour, then the crème fraîche and Calvados.
  2. Pull the oven rack out halfway and slowly pour the custard over and between the apples until it nearly reaches the rim. Slide it back in carefully and bake for 25 to 30 minutes.
  3. Cool the tart on the rack in its pan for at least 30 minutes. Push up the base to remove the ring and dust with powdered sugar through a small sieve.

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