France · Signature dish

Quiche lorraine

Bacon and egg custard tart

Smoky bacon suspended in a trembling nutmeg custard inside a crisp butter crust: the tart of Lorraine, as good warm at lunch as cold the next morning.

Quiche lorraine

Quiche lorraine comes from Lorraine in the northeast of France, the region next door to Champagne and the fast, straight roads of the old Reims circuit. The original was a peasant affair of bread dough, eggs, cream and smoked pork, and the Lorrains remain firm on one point: the classic has no cheese. Generations of cooks elsewhere have quietly added Gruyère anyway, and the tart has survived the scandal.

The texture is the whole game. A good quiche lorraine wobbles in the middle when it leaves the oven and sets into a soft, silky custard as it rests, with the bacon scattered through it like punctuation. It slices cleanly, travels in a tin, and tastes even better at room temperature, which makes it an ideal companion for a long race watched from the sofa.

The pastry case

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the flour and salt in the mixing bowl and add the butter cubes. With your fingertips, pick up butter and flour and rub them together, letting the mixture fall back into the bowl. Keep going for 3 to 4 minutes. Work quickly so the butter stays cold.
  2. Beat the egg yolk with 3 tablespoons of the cold water and pour it over the crumbs. Stir with a fork, then press the dough together with your hand. Add the last tablespoon of water only if dry crumbs refuse to join in.
  3. Flatten the dough into a disc about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick, wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
  4. Dust the counter and rolling pin with flour. Roll the dough from the center outward, turning it a quarter turn every few rolls, into a circle about 12 inches (30 cm) across and 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick. Roll it loosely around the pin, unroll it over the pan and ease it down into the corners without stretching. Press it against the sides, then roll the pin across the top of the pan to cut off the excess. Prick the base all over with a fork and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C) with a baking sheet on the middle rack while it chills.
  5. Line the pastry with a crumpled then flattened sheet of parchment and fill it to the top with the dried beans. Set the pan on the hot baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes. Lift out the paper and beans carefully, then bake the empty case for 8 to 10 minutes more. Turn the oven down to 340°F (170°C).

The bacon

Ingredients

Method

  1. While the case bakes, put the lardons in the cold skillet, set it over medium heat and cook, stirring now and then, for 6 to 8 minutes. Lift them out with a slotted spoon onto a paper towel. Leave the fat behind.

The custard and the bake

Ingredients

Method

  1. In the measuring jug, whisk the eggs and yolk until smooth. Whisk in the crème fraîche, milk, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Whisk gently; you want it smooth, not foamy.
  2. Leave the baked case on the baking sheet and pull the oven rack halfway out. Scatter the bacon evenly over the base, then slowly pour in the custard until it comes to about 1/8 inch (3 mm) below the rim. Slide the rack back in gently.
  3. Bake at 340°F (170°C) for 30 to 35 minutes. Gently shake the pan.
  4. Let the quiche rest on a rack for at least 20 minutes before removing the pan sides and slicing. The center finishes setting as it cools.

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