France · Regional favorite

Poulet à la provençale

Chicken braised with tomatoes, olives and herbs

Golden chicken thighs simmered in white wine with tomatoes, garlic, olives and the herbs of the Provençal hills: one pan, forty minutes, and the smell of a Riviera kitchen.

Poulet à la provençale

In French cooking, à la provençale means tomatoes, garlic and olive oil, usually joined by olives and the wild herbs that grow on the dry hills behind the coast. Circuit Paul Ricard sits on just such a plateau above Le Castellet, surrounded by thyme, rosemary and vineyards, so this is a dish that grows within sight of the grandstands.

Every Provençal family has a version, and they rarely agree on whether anchovies, capers or a strip of orange peel belong in it. Ours takes the middle road: tomatoes, white wine, olives and herbs, with an anchovy melted in for depth that nobody will identify. It is a weeknight braise with the manners of a Sunday lunch.

The chicken

Ingredients

Method

  1. Sprinkle the chicken on both sides with the salt, pepper and 1 teaspoon of the herbes de Provence.
  2. Heat the oil in the skillet over medium high heat until it shimmers. Lay the thighs in skin side down and leave them alone for 7 to 8 minutes. Turn and cook 3 minutes on the other side. Move them to a plate. Pour off all but about 1 tablespoon of the fat.

The Provençal sauce

Ingredients

Method

  1. Turn the heat to medium. Add the onion to the fat in the pan and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and anchovies and cook 1 minute, pressing the anchovies with the spoon until they melt.
  2. Pour in the wine and let it bubble for 2 minutes, scraping the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. This is called deglazing.
  3. Add the canned tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, olives, orange peel and the remaining 1 teaspoon herbes de Provence. Stir and bring to a simmer.
  4. Return the chicken skin side up, with any juices, nestling it into the sauce so the skin stays above the liquid. Cover, turn the heat to low and simmer for 25 minutes. Then uncover and simmer 10 minutes more so the sauce thickens.
  5. Lift out the orange peel. Taste the sauce and add a pinch of salt if needed. Scatter with the parsley.

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