France · Regional favorite

Gratin dauphinois

Potatoes baked slowly in garlic cream

Thin slices of raw potato baked low and slow in milk and cream from a garlic rubbed dish, until meltingly soft beneath a bronzed, bubbling top. No cheese, by local conviction.

Gratin dauphinois

Gratin dauphinois comes from the Dauphiné, the old province of southeastern France around Grenoble, where the Alps begin. Its first written appearance is pleasingly precise: on 12 July 1788 the Duke of Clermont Tonnerre served it at a dinner for the municipal officers of Gap. Two centuries on, it is the side dish every French home cook can make, and the one restaurants put next to a roast leg of lamb when they want the plate to be cleared.

The method is close to nothing: raw potatoes sliced coin thin, a dish rubbed with garlic and butter, milk and cream, salt, pepper and nutmeg, and a long, gentle bake. The starch from the potatoes thickens the cream on its own, so there is no flour and no egg. And no cheese, which is the dish's great point of honor. Escoffier and plenty of chefs since have added some anyway; in the Dauphiné, that version is politely referred to as something else.

The gratin

Ingredients

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