France · Trackside classic

Galette saucisse

Grilled pork sausage rolled in a buckwheat galette

A hot, snapping grilled pork sausage rolled in a cool, nutty buckwheat galette and eaten in the hand: the Breton hot dog of Rennes markets and football terraces.

Galette saucisse

In Rennes and the rest of Upper Brittany, the galette saucisse is less a snack than an article of faith. A grilled pork sausage is rolled in a thin pancake of buckwheat, the dark, earthy flour that Brittany has grown since the late Middle Ages, and handed over in a twist of paper. It dates from the end of the nineteenth century, when crowds gathered at La Robiquette, a meadow just north of the city, to eat it before and after matches. It is still the food of the Saturday market at the Place des Lices and of the stands around the Stade Rennais ground, and there is even a society devoted to protecting it from improvement.

The rules, such as they are, are refreshingly short. The sausage is pork and grilled. The galette is buckwheat and served cold or barely warm, which sounds odd until you hold one: it keeps your fingers from the hot sausage and soaks up its juices. A few fried onions are accepted. Ketchup is not. Mustard is tolerated with the faint disapproval reserved for people who arrive after the formation lap.

The buckwheat galettes

Ingredients

The sausages and onions

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Rolling the galette saucisse

Ingredients

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