France · Trackside classic

Croque monsieur

Baked ham and cheese sandwich with béchamel

Ham and Gruyère between slices of bread, blanketed in béchamel and more cheese, then baked until bubbling and blistered: the café sandwich France eats with a knife and fork.

Croque monsieur

The croque monsieur appeared on Paris café menus in the early twentieth century, and its name, roughly mister crunch, has puzzled and pleased diners ever since. At its simplest it is a toasted ham and cheese sandwich. At its best it wears a coat of white sauce and grated Gruyère and comes out of the oven bronzed, bubbling and far too hot to eat straight away, which nobody ever waits for.

It is the dependable snack of French brasseries, train stations and circuit food stands alike, and it scales beautifully: one tray feeds a room of hungry spectators. Crack a fried egg on top and it becomes a croque madame, said to be named for the egg's resemblance to a lady's hat. The resemblance requires some imagination; the sandwich does not.

The béchamel

Ingredients

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C) with a rack in the middle.
  2. Melt the butter in the saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk constantly for 1 1/2 minutes. This butter and flour paste is called a roux.
  3. Pour in the milk a little at a time, whisking hard after each addition so no lumps form. Keep whisking and bring to a gentle bubble, then cook 2 to 3 minutes more. Whisk in the nutmeg, salt and pepper and take the pan off the heat.

The sandwiches

Ingredients

Method

  1. Butter one side of each slice of bread. Lay them buttered side up on the baking sheet and toast in the oven for 5 minutes.
  2. Turn four slices over so the untoasted side faces up and spread each with 1 teaspoon mustard. Top each with 2 slices of ham, folded to fit, and 1/4 cup (25 g) of the cheese. Cover with the remaining slices, toasted side facing up.
  3. Spread a quarter of the béchamel thickly over the top of each sandwich, right to the edges. Scatter the remaining cheese over the sauce.
  4. Bake for 10 minutes. Then switch the oven to broil (grill) on high and broil for 2 to 3 minutes, watching closely.

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