France · Sweet finish

Clafoutis aux cerises

Baked cherry custard pudding from the Limousin

Dark sweet cherries baked in a soft, vanilla scented batter halfway between a pancake and a custard, puffed and golden at the edges and finished with a dusting of sugar.

Clafoutis aux cerises

Clafoutis comes from the Limousin, the green, rolling cattle country of central France, and it is the most modest of French desserts in the best possible sense. Butter a dish, fill it with black cherries, pour over a sweet batter of eggs, milk, sugar and a little flour, and bake until it puffs and sets. The name is usually traced to the Occitan word clafir, to fill, which is exactly what the cherries do. Made with other fruit it becomes, strictly speaking, a flaugnarde, a distinction that purists defend with some firmness.

In the Limousin the cherries go in whole, stones and all. The stones keep the fruit from bleeding into the batter and lend it a faint almond note as it bakes; they also turn dessert into a careful exercise, which is why many cooks now pit them. We give both options. It takes ten minutes to put together, and it is best warm rather than hot, so it can come out of the oven at the start of the race and be perfect by the first round of pit stops.

The cherries and dish

Ingredients

The batter

Ingredients

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