Finland · Sweet finish

Runebergintorttu

Runeberg tortes: almond and rum soaked little cakes with raspberry jam

Small, tall almond cakes made with cookie crumbs and cardamom, soaked in rum syrup while warm, then crowned with a ring of white icing and a bright dab of raspberry jam.

Runebergintorttu

Every year from early January until the fifth of February, Finnish bakeries and supermarkets fill up with small cylindrical cakes, each topped with a ring of white icing around a spot of raspberry jam. They are named after Johan Ludvig Runeberg, the national poet who wrote the words of Finland's national anthem and whose birthday, the fifth of February, is celebrated as Runeberg Day. Legend says he liked them with a glass of punsch for breakfast, which tells you a good deal about nineteenth century poets. A recipe for them appears in the cookbook of his wife, Fredrika Runeberg, from the 1850s, though it is generally believed to be her variation on an earlier recipe by a professional confectioner.

The texture is the point: dense and moist rather than fluffy, from ground almonds, crushed biscuits or breadcrumbs and a generous soaking of rum or arrack syrup. Traditionally they are baked in special cylinder molds, but a muffin pan does the job admirably. They are one of the rare cakes that improve by being made a day early, which makes them a calm baker's best friend.

The tortes

Ingredients

The rum syrup

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Jam and icing

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