Finland · Signature dish

Ruisleipä

Finnish sourdough rye bread, baked as hole loaves

Dark, dense, deeply sour bread made from nothing but whole rye flour, water, salt and a sourdough starter, shaped into flat rounds with a hole in the middle and baked until the crackled crust is nearly mahogany.

Ruisleipä

In 2017, the year Finland marked a century of independence, the country held a vote to choose its national food, and the winner was not a festive roast or a fish but rye bread. Ruisleipä is the most popular bread in Finland, eaten at breakfast, lunch and in between, usually with butter and a slice of cheese or ham, and it even has its own day, ruisleivän päivä, on February 28th. The traditional loaf is made from just whole rye flour, water, salt and a sourdough culture that Finns call the root of the bread, and unlike many Swedish rye breads it is usually neither sweetened nor spiced with caraway.

The hole in the middle has a practical history. In western Finland, reikäleipä, hole bread, was baked in rings that could be threaded onto poles below the kitchen ceiling to dry and keep through the winter. Our loaves are fresh rather than dried, but the shape bakes evenly and looks wonderful on a board.

Rye dough behaves nothing like wheat dough: it is sticky, heavy and does not stretch, and that is correct. Treat it more like wet clay than bread dough, keep your hands wet, and the oven does the rest. Like any good race strategy, it rewards patience: the loaves are best a full day after baking.

Rye starter from scratch (only if you have none)

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The levain (the evening before)

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The dough and shaping

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Baking and cooling

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