If you want to know what Finns eat on an ordinary evening, start here. Makaronilaatikko, macaroni box in literal translation, is pasta and fried minced meat set in a savory custard of eggs and milk and baked until the top is golden and the corners crunchy. A 2010 survey ranked it the second most popular everyday dinner in the country; it is a staple of school lunches, and almost every Finn has a firm opinion about the correct amount of crust. It was once a party dish, mentioned as festive food as early as 1915, and was often made without meat in leaner decades.

There is also the matter of ketchup, which in Finland is not optional but practically structural. Pickled cucumbers usually join it. The casserole is cheap, generous, easy to scale for a crowd and better reheated, which is why it belongs on any race weekend menu: it waits in the oven without complaint through a red flag.

The meat and macaroni

Ingredients

• 12 oz (340 g) elbow macaroni
• 1 tablespoon fine salt
• 1 tablespoon (15 g) butter or oil
• 1 large yellow onion
• 1 lb (450 g) ground beef, or a beef and pork mix
• 1 1/4 teaspoons fine salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper or allspice

Method

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the tablespoon of salt. Add the macaroni and cook for 2 minutes less than the packet says, stirring now and then. Drain in the colander and rinse briefly under cold water so it does not stick together.
2. Melt the butter or heat the oil in the frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes.
3. Turn the heat to medium high, add the meat and break it up with the wooden spoon into small crumbs. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often, until it is browned and any liquid in the pan has evaporated. Season with the salt, black pepper, paprika and white pepper or allspice, stir for 30 seconds and take off the heat.
4. Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C) and grease the baking dish with butter. Tip the drained macaroni and the meat into the dish and mix them together evenly with the spoon, then level the top.

The egg custard and topping

Ingredients

• 3 large eggs
• 3 cups (720 ml) whole milk
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup (100 g) grated mild cheese
• 1 tablespoon (15 g) butter

Method

1. Whisk the eggs in the mixing bowl until the yolks and whites are completely blended, then whisk in the milk, salt and pepper.
2. Pour the custard slowly and evenly over the macaroni and meat. It should come almost to the top of the pasta; press down any pieces sticking up. Scatter the grated cheese over the top and dot with the small pieces of butter.
3. Set the dish on a baking sheet to catch drips and bake on the middle rack for 45 to 55 minutes. If the top browns too much before the custard has set, cover it loosely with foil.
4. Take the casserole out of the oven and leave it to stand for 10 minutes before cutting it into squares.

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