When Helsinki hosted the Summer Olympics in 1952, Finland's strict alcohol rules were loosened for the crowds, and the state alcohol company prepared ready mixed long drinks that bars could serve quickly to thirsty visitors. The gin and grapefruit version was meant to last only for the Games. The public had other ideas, and it has been a fixture of Finnish summers ever since. Finns call it lonkero, which literally means tentacle, a nickname from the word long drink that nobody has ever fully explained, and which nobody seems to mind.

Our homemade version swaps the bottle for fresh grapefruit juice, a little sugar syrup and soda water, so it tastes bright, bitter and only gently sweet, with the juniper of the gin underneath. It is the ideal drink for a sunny race afternoon, especially one with a Finn on the podium. For the zero proof version, which is every bit as refreshing, see the first variation.

The syrup

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup (50 g) sugar
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) water

The drink

Ingredients

• 2 grapefruits
• 6 oz (180 ml) gin
• 2 cups (480 ml) soda water
• plenty ice cubes

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