Finland · Sweet finish

Leipäjuusto

Finnish squeaky bread cheese, warmed in cream with cloudberry jam

A homemade disc of mild, fresh cheese baked until freckled gold and brown, cut into wedges, warmed in a little cream and served with tart, golden cloudberry jam. It squeaks against your teeth, which is exactly as it should be.

Leipäjuusto

Leipäjuusto, bread cheese, is not bread at all. It is a fresh cheese from Southern Ostrobothnia, Kainuu and the north of Finland, made by curdling milk, pressing the curds into a flat round and baking or grilling it until the surface is scorched with brown spots that look, with a little imagination, like a loaf. It was originally made from colostrum, the rich first milk after a cow calves; today it is made from ordinary milk. Its other name, narskujuusto, refers to the squeak it makes against your teeth, and in the United States it is often sold simply as Finnish squeaky cheese.

Finns eat it in several ways: in slices with coffee, in cubes dropped into a cup with hot coffee poured over them, which is why its Swedish name, kaffeost, means coffee cheese, or, best of all, warmed and served with cloudberry jam as a dessert. Cloudberries grow in northern bogs and ripen to a soft amber; their jam is tart, floral and a little like apricot, and with the mild, milky cheese it is a remarkably elegant pairing for something so rustic.

Making it at home is cheesemaking at its most forgiving: one pot, one gallon of milk, a few drops of rennet and an hour. It makes a quietly impressive dessert to bring out after the podium ceremony.

Making the curd

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Baking the cheese

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Warming in cream and serving

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