Estonia · Signature dish

Verivorst

Estonian Christmas blood sausage with barley and marjoram

Dark, tender sausages of pearl barley, pork, onion and blood, scented with marjoram and allspice, roasted until the skins crackle and served with lingonberry jam, sauerkraut and potatoes.

Verivorst

Ask an Estonian what Christmas smells like and there is a good chance the answer will be verivorst roasting in the oven. Blood sausage made with barley, pork fat and onion, seasoned generously with marjoram and allspice, is the centerpiece of the Estonian Christmas table, served alongside roast pork, sauerkraut, potatoes and something tart and red to cut the richness: lingonberry jam or cranberry sauce. Making them was traditionally a family affair, with everyone given a job, and plenty of households still keep up the habit.

The flavor is gentler than many first timers expect: earthy, savory and warmly spiced, with the barley giving a soft, porridge like texture inside a skin that turns crisp in a hot oven. Marjoram is the defining herb, and Estonian cooks are not shy with it.

This is a project rather than a weeknight supper, and it rewards a little organization. The good news is that the sausages are poached a day or more ahead, so on race weekend all that remains is to roast them until they crackle.

The barley and onion base

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Mixing and filling the sausages

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Poaching

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Roasting and serving

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