Estonia · Regional favorite

Sült

Estonian jellied pork with mustard, horseradish and hot potatoes

Tender pork from slowly simmered hocks and shoulder set in its own clear, softly trembling jelly with carrot and bay, sliced cold and served with sharp mustard, horseradish, a splash of vinegar and steaming boiled potatoes.

Sült

Sült is the dish that turns the least glamorous cuts of the pig into something an Estonian grandmother would happily put on the best plate. Pork hocks and trotters are simmered for hours with onion, carrot, bay and allspice until the meat falls from the bone and the broth is full of natural gelatin. The meat is chopped, the broth is poured over, and overnight in a cold place the whole thing sets into a gently quivering block. It was once winter food made from cheap cuts, and it has long since become a fixture of Christmas and wedding tables.

The Estonian style is softer and more delicate than most of its European cousins: generous on jelly, light on spice and made with good meat, so it begins to melt if left too long on a warm table. The bite comes from what is served with it: strong mustard, grated horseradish, a few drops of vinegar and potatoes hot from the pot, so that each forkful is cold, sharp and warm at once.

It is mostly a matter of waiting, which suits a race weekend. Simmer it on the day of qualifying, let it set overnight, and it is ready to slice before the lights go out.

The broth and meat

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Setting the jelly

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To serve

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