If an Estonian lights a grill in summer, there is a very good chance šašlõkk is the reason. The dish became popular during the Soviet years and has stayed on long after: big chunks of pork shoulder, a mountain of sliced onion, salt, pepper and a sharp splash of vinegar, all massaged together by hand until the onion gives up its juice, then left for a day before going onto skewers and over the coals. It is the essential food of Jaanipäev, the Midsummer festival that begins on the evening of the 23rd of June, when thousands of bonfires are lit across the country and people stay up through a night that barely gets dark.

It is equally at home wherever an Estonian crowd gathers outdoors in summer, which on a sunny weekend means almost everywhere. The vinegar is a matter of some debate among Estonian cooks, since it can dry the meat; the answer is a fatty cut and a sharp eye on the grill.

The marinated pork

Ingredients

• 2 1/4 lb (1 kg) boneless pork shoulder
• 4 large onions
• 3 garlic cloves
• 1/3 cup (80 ml) white or cider vinegar
• 2 teaspoons fine salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 2 bay leaves

Grilling

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) sunflower oil

Cucumber and tomato salad

Ingredients

• 2 cucumbers
• 4 ripe tomatoes
• 1/2 cup (120 g) sour cream
• 2 tablespoons fresh dill
• 1/2 teaspoon salt

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