Mulgimaa, a rolling farming region in the south of Estonia, has given the country one of its most famous dishes, and in the most practical way imaginable. Take sauerkraut, a piece of fatty pork and a handful of pearl barley, put them in a pot with water and leave them alone for a couple of hours. The barley was added, so the story goes, not for flavor but to make the pot go further, which is the kind of reasoning that has produced many of the world's best dishes. Mulgikapsad is on Estonia's list of cultural heritage and is widely regarded as a national food.

It is winter food, the kind that waits patiently on the back of the stove, and it is better the day after it is made. For a race weekend it has the great merit of asking nothing of you once it is in the pot.

The mulgikapsad

Ingredients

• 2 1/4 lb (1 kg) sauerkraut
• 1 1/2 lb (680 g) fresh pork belly or fatty pork shoulder
• 3/4 cup (150 g) pearl barley
• 1 onion
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds
• about 2 cups (480 ml) water
• 1 to 2 teaspoons sugar

Method

1. Spread half the sauerkraut over the bottom of the heavy pot. Scatter over the pork cubes, the onion if using, then the barley. Cover with the rest of the sauerkraut. Sprinkle over the salt, pepper and caraway.
2. Pour in enough water to come just to the top of the sauerkraut, but not to cover it. Put the lid on and bring to a boil over medium high heat.
3. Turn the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 2 to 2 1/2 hours. Do not stir. Check every 30 minutes and add a splash of hot water if the bottom looks dry.
4. Now stir everything together thoroughly. Taste and add salt, and sugar a teaspoon at a time, to soften the sourness to your liking.

Boiled potatoes

Ingredients

• 2 lb (900 g) potatoes
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup (240 g) sour cream

Method

1. About 30 minutes before the end, cover the potatoes with cold water in the saucepan, add the salt, bring to a boil and simmer for 18 to 22 minutes. Drain.
2. Spoon the mulgikapsad onto warm plates with the potatoes, and pass the sour cream at the table.

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