Estonia · Trackside classic

Küüslauguleivad

Crisp garlic rye bread sticks with dill mayonnaise

Fingers of dark rye bread fried until crunchy, tossed in raw garlic and salt while hot, and served with a cool dill and garlic mayonnaise for dipping.

Küüslauguleivad

Walk into almost any pub in Estonia, order a beer, and a basket of küüslauguleivad will very likely follow, whether by request or by sheer force of habit. The idea is gloriously simple: fingers of dense, dark rye bread are fried until the outside shatters, then tossed with crushed garlic and salt while they are still hot enough to make the garlic sing. The neighbors share the habit, Latvians and Lithuanians have their own versions, but the Estonian name is the one with the most umlauts.

They are often served with a creamy garlic dip, and supermarkets sell them ready made in bags, which tells you how seriously the nation takes its bar snacks. Made at home, with a good sour rye loaf, they are better than anything in a bag. They take about twenty minutes and are the ideal thing to put on the table as the cars line up on the grid; they will not survive past the first stint.

The dill and garlic dip

Ingredients

Method

  1. In the small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, sour cream, garlic, dill and pepper. Add milk or water a teaspoon at a time until the dip is loose enough to cling to a bread stick without dripping off. Cover and chill while you fry.

The garlic bread sticks

Ingredients

Method

  1. Trim off any very hard crusts if you like, though most Estonians leave them on. Cut each slice of bread into sticks about 1/2 inch (1 cm) wide and 3 to 4 inches (8 to 10 cm) long.
  2. Put the crushed garlic, salt and the extra tablespoon of oil in the large mixing bowl and mix with a spoon to a loose paste.
  3. Pour the cup of oil into the frying pan to a depth of about 1/4 inch (6 mm) and heat it over medium high heat.
  4. Add a single layer of bread sticks without crowding the pan and fry for about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes per side, turning them with the tongs, until crisp all over. Rye is dark already, so go by sound and feel rather than color.
  5. Lift each batch straight from the pan onto the paper towels for 10 seconds, then tip it into the bowl of garlic and toss well with the tongs while the bread is still sizzling hot. Move the coated sticks to a serving basket and fry the next batch, adding a little more oil to the pan if it runs low.

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