Smažený sýr, fried cheese, is the Czech Republic's unofficial national snack and one of the few vegetarian dishes found on every pub menu in the country. It arrived after the Second World War and settled in for good: a thick slice of edam, breaded like a schnitzel and fried, served with fries or boiled potatoes and a dollop of tatarská omáčka, Czech tartar sauce. At summer festivals, swimming pools and sports grounds, it is often sold in a soft bun, which turns it into what may be Europe's most indulgent sandwich.

It is a main course here rather than an appetizer, and it is best eaten the moment it leaves the pan, when the cheese flows. A tray of these on race day is a reliable way to make friends.

The tartar sauce

Ingredients

• 3/4 cup (180 g) mayonnaise
• 3 tablespoons sweet and sour pickles
• 1 tablespoon pickle brine
• 2 tablespoons onion
• 1 teaspoon mild yellow or Dijon mustard
• 1 pinch sugar and salt

The cheese

Ingredients

• 1 lb (450 g) edam cheese
• 1/2 cup (65 g) all purpose flour
• 3 large eggs
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) milk
• 1/4 teaspoon fine salt
• 1 1/2 cups (150 g) fine dry breadcrumbs
• about 2 cups (480 ml) vegetable oil

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