Česnečka asks for almost nothing that is not already in a Czech kitchen, which is precisely the point. Its roots are humble, a thin soup eaten by poor farmworkers, built from little more than broth, potatoes and a startling quantity of garlic, seasoned with the Czech pantry favorites of caraway and marjoram. Most of the garlic is gently softened in the pot, but the last spoonful goes in raw just before serving, which is where the soup gets its bite.

Today it sits on the menu of almost every pub in Prague, and it has a reputation as a cure for colds, chills and the morning after. We make no medical claims for it, beyond observing that a bowl of hot garlic broth with crisp bread and melted cheese has never made anyone feel worse. It is ready in about forty minutes and is just the thing for a wet morning practice session.

The soup

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons (45 g) butter or lard
• 1 small yellow onion
• 2 whole heads of garlic
• 1 lb (450 g) waxy or all round potatoes
• 6 cups (1.4 liters) chicken or vegetable stock
• 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried marjoram
• 1 bay leaf
• to taste fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large egg
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or chives

Method

1. Melt the butter or lard in the saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring now and then, for 5 minutes.
2. Turn the heat to medium low and add the sliced garlic. Stir it constantly with the wooden spoon for 2 to 3 minutes. If the edges start to color, take the pan off the heat for a moment.
3. Add the potato cubes, caraway, marjoram and bay leaf and stir for 1 minute so the potatoes are coated in the garlic butter.
4. Pour in the stock, add 1/2 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper, and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat down so the soup bubbles gently, set the lid ajar and simmer for 15 to 18 minutes.
5. If you want the classic egg ribbons, keep the soup at a gentle simmer and pour in the beaten egg in a thin stream while stirring the soup slowly in one direction. Stop stirring and leave it for 30 seconds.
6. Take the pan off the heat and fish out the bay leaf. Press or finely grate the 3 reserved garlic cloves straight into the soup and stir. Taste and add salt and pepper until the broth tastes savory and full. Stir in most of the parsley.

The croutons and cheese

Ingredients

• 4 oz (115 g) dark rye bread
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) neutral oil or melted butter
• a pinch fine salt
• 3 oz (85 g) mild melting cheese

Method

1. Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Put the bread cubes on the baking sheet, drizzle with the oil or butter, sprinkle with salt and toss with your hands until every cube is lightly coated. Spread them out in one layer.
2. Bake for 10 to 14 minutes, shaking the tray once halfway through. Rye bread is dark already, so judge by touch rather than color.
3. Put a small handful of grated cheese in the bottom of each warm bowl. Ladle the hot soup over it, then scatter the croutons and the last of the parsley on top. Serve at once, before the croutons soften.

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