Most of Central and Eastern Europe fries grated potato in some form, but the Czech bramborák has a signature that gives it away at twenty paces: garlic, used without restraint, and dried marjoram, the herb that perfumes half of Czech cooking. A little flour and an egg hold the potato together, sometimes a splash of hot milk loosens it, and the batter goes into a hot pan as thin, rough edged pancakes that crisp to a deep gold. Some cooks add caraway, and in some regions grated sauerkraut or a little smoked meat finds its way in.

Few dishes collect so many local names. Depending on where you stand in the country it may be called kramflek, strouhanec, bandorník or, in the Krkonoše mountains, sejkora, and in Plzeň it has names of its own. Under any name it is sold hot from stalls at markets, fairs and Christmas markets, served in pubs as a snack, and made at home whenever there is a bag of potatoes and a reason to celebrate. A plate of these beside the television is a reason in itself.

The potato batter

Ingredients

• 2 lb (900 g) starchy potatoes
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) whole milk
• 1 large egg
• 1/2 cup (65 g) all purpose flour
• 4 to 5 garlic cloves
• 1 tablespoon dried marjoram
• 1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds
• 1 1/4 teaspoons fine salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Method

1. Set the box grater in the large bowl and grate the peeled potatoes on the fine holes, or on the fine disc of a food processor. Fine grating gives a pancake that holds together and has lacy edges; coarse shreds tend to fall apart.
2. Tip the potato into the middle of the clean towel, gather up the corners and twist hard over the sink, squeezing with both hands until no more liquid runs out. Do it in two batches if the towel is small. Put the squeezed potato back into the dry bowl.
3. Pour the hot milk over the potato and stir it through with a spoon. The heat sets some of the starch and helps stop the potato turning grey.
4. Add the egg, flour, garlic, marjoram, caraway if using, salt and pepper. Stir well until no dry flour is visible. The batter should be thick enough to sit in a spoon in a loose mound. If it runs off the spoon like soup, stir in 1 or 2 more tablespoons of flour.

Frying

Ingredients

• about 2/3 cup (160 ml) lard or neutral oil
• to taste flaky salt

Method

1. Set the frying pan over medium high heat and add about 3 tablespoons of fat, enough to cover the bottom in a thin layer about 1/8 inch (3 mm) deep. Wait until it is properly hot before adding any batter.
2. Spoon in about 1/3 cup (80 ml) of batter and spread it with the back of the spoon into a thin round about 5 inches (13 cm) across and no thicker than 1/4 inch (6 mm). Fry for 3 to 4 minutes until the underside is deep golden, then flip with the spatula and fry the second side for 2 to 3 minutes. Taste it and add more salt, garlic or marjoram to the batter if needed.
3. Stir the batter each time before you scoop, since liquid collects at the bottom. Fry two or three pancakes at a time, leaving space between them, and add a little more fat before each batch. If they brown too fast, lower the heat slightly; if they stay pale, raise it.
4. Lift each cooked pancake onto the wire rack on the baking sheet, or onto paper towels, and slide it into the warm oven while you fry the rest. Sprinkle with a little flaky salt if you like.

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