Colombia · Regional favorite

Pescado frito con arroz con coco

Fried whole fish with caramelized coconut rice

A whole snapper fried until the skin crackles, served with dark, gently sweet coconut rice cooked in its own toasted coconut milk, lime wedges and a sharp tomato and onion salad.

Pescado frito con arroz con coco

On the beaches of Cartagena and along Colombia's Caribbean coast, lunch has a settled shape: a whole fish, usually red snapper or mojarra, fried until crisp from head to tail, with coconut rice, patacones and a small salad of tomato and onion. Cartagena's own guides to its food count it among the essential dishes of the city, and it is best eaten within sight of the sea, which is not always practical but is always worth attempting.

The rice is the quiet star. Cartagena makes arroz con coco white or dark, and the dark version begins by boiling coconut milk until its water has gone and the solids fry in their own oil, turning into toasty brown flecks called titoté that color and flavor the rice. Many cooks add raisins and a little sugar, so the rice is faintly sweet beside the salty fish. It is a dish for a long, hot afternoon, and a fine way to bring a little of the coast to a summer race weekend.

The coconut rice

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The fried fish

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The salad and garnish

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