In Colombia, December means natilla and buñuelos. Natilla is a pudding of milk, panela and cornstarch, flavored with cinnamon and cooked until thick enough to set in a dish and cut into squares, rather softer than fudge and firmer than custard. It is made for the novenas, the nine evenings of prayers, songs and food before Christmas, often in big pots stirred in turns by the whole family, and eaten with buñuelos, golden balls of fried cheese dough.

Its color comes from the panela, which gives it a soft caramel brown and a deep, molasses edged sweetness. It takes twenty minutes of steady stirring and no other skill, which makes it a good job to give the person who keeps asking what they can do to help.

The natilla

Ingredients

• 6 cups (1.4 liters) whole milk
• 8 oz (225 g) panela
• 3 cinnamon sticks
• 1 cup (130 g) cornstarch
• 2 tablespoons (30 g) butter
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 pinch fine salt
• 1/2 cup (40 g) unsweetened shredded coconut
• 1/3 cup (50 g) raisins
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Method

1. Put 5 cups (1.2 liters) of the milk, the panela, cinnamon sticks and salt in the saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the panela dissolves and the milk is steaming with small bubbles at the edge, about 10 minutes. Do not let it boil over. Remove the cinnamon sticks.
2. Whisk the cornstarch into the remaining 1 cup (240 ml) cold milk in the bowl until completely smooth.
3. Turn the heat to medium low. Whisk the starch mixture again and pour it into the hot milk in a thin stream, stirring constantly. Keep stirring with the wooden spoon, scraping the bottom and corners, for 10 to 15 minutes.
4. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the butter, vanilla and, if using, the coconut and raisins.
5. Rinse the dish with cold water and shake it out without drying. Pour in the natilla and smooth the top. Cool for 1 hour at room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 3 hours.

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