Colombia · Regional favorite

Mote de queso

Caribbean coast yam and salty white cheese soup

Chunks of white yam simmered until they collapse into a thick, creamy broth, sharpened with a garlicky green onion sofrito and lime and studded with cubes of salty coastal cheese that soften without melting away.

Mote de queso

Mote de queso belongs to the hot savannas of Colombia's Caribbean coast, to Córdoba, Sucre and the hills of the Montes de María, where it is something close to a regional emblem. The base is ñame, a large, starchy yam, simmered until it begins to fall apart and thickens its own broth into a pale, velvety soup. Into it go cubes of queso costeño, the coast's firm, salty white cheese, which softens in the heat but keeps its shape, and a sofrito of green onion, sweet pepper and garlic. Lime goes in at the end, and a spoonful of tangy suero on top.

It is a soup with very few ingredients and a surprising amount of personality: creamy and comforting, then salty and sharp, served with a bowl of white or coconut rice alongside, whatever the heat outside. Some cooks in Montería add eggplant or coconut milk. Every version depends on the same small judgment, which is to stop the yam cooking at the moment it turns to cream, rather than a moment before or several moments after.

The yam soup

Ingredients

The sofrito

Ingredients

The cheese and finish

Ingredients

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