Colombia · Signature dish

Lechona tolimense

Tolima slow roast pork with yellow peas under crackling skin

A home sized lechona: garlicky, cumin scented pork and soft yellow peas, slow roasted together under a sheet of pork skin until the meat is meltingly tender and the top shatters like glass.

Lechona tolimense

Lechona is the great feast dish of Tolima, in central Colombia: a whole pig, boned and stuffed with its own meat, yellow peas, green onions and spices, then sewn up and roasted for many hours in a clay oven until the skin is blistered, golden and as crisp as toffee. It is cut open at the table and served in heaping portions with corn arepas and insulso, Tolima's own version of the set, spoonable sweet natilla. Long a dish for Christmas and big celebrations, it has spread across the country, and the town of Espinal has even declared a national lechona day. Rice is the great point of argument: it is optional, and far more likely to turn up in a Bogotá lechona than in one from Tolima.

Very few home kitchens have room for a whole pig, so this version follows the same idea on a smaller scale. Pork shoulder and belly are marinated with garlic, green onion and cumin, layered with cooked yellow peas in a roasting pan, covered with the belly skin and roasted slowly, then blasted with heat until the skin crackles. It is a project for a crowd and a long afternoon, which describes a race weekend well enough.

The marinated pork

Ingredients

The yellow peas

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Assembly and roasting

Ingredients

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