High in the Colombian Andes, nights are cold enough to need a remedy, and the canelazo is the warmest one available. It starts as aguapanela, unrefined cane sugar dissolved in water, simmered with cinnamon sticks and a little citrus. Just before serving, a shot of aguardiente, Colombia's clear, anise flavored cane spirit, goes into each cup. In Bogotá it is a staple of December evenings, when families gather for the novenas before Christmas, and of chilly street fairs all year.

It is sweet, spicy and fragrant, and the sugar rim on the cup makes every sip a small occasion. For a late night race in a cold house, it beats a blanket, and the zero proof version keeps the whole family included.

The spiced aguapanela

Ingredients

• 6 cups (1.4 liters) water
• 8 oz (225 g) panela
• 4 cinnamon sticks
• 4 whole cloves
• 1 orange
• 1 lime

Method

1. Put the water, panela, cinnamon, cloves and orange peel in the saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring until the panela has dissolved, then lower the heat and simmer gently for 15 minutes.
2. Take off the heat, stir in the orange and lime juice and strain through the sieve into a clean jug or back into the rinsed pan. Keep hot over very low heat; do not let it boil again.

To serve

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons granulated sugar or panela granules
• 1 lime wedge
• 1 cup (240 ml) aguardiente
• 6 small cinnamon sticks

Method

1. Spread the sugar on the small plate. Run the lime wedge around the rim of each cup and dip the rim in the sugar, turning to coat.
2. Pour about 1 1/3 oz (40 ml) aguardiente into each cup, then ladle in about 3/4 cup (180 ml) of the hot spiced aguapanela. Add a cinnamon stick.

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