Colombia · Trackside classic

Buñuelos colombianos

Colombian cheese fritters

Golden balls of salty white cheese and starch dough, fried gently until they puff into crisp spheres with a soft, airy, cheesy center.

Buñuelos colombianos

Colombian buñuelos are nothing like the thin, sugar dusted fritters that share their name elsewhere in Latin America. They are round balls of finely grated salty white cheese bound with cassava starch and cornstarch, a little egg and milk, fried slowly until they swell and turn a deep gold. Bakeries and street stalls sell them all year, for breakfast or with coffee or hot chocolate in the afternoon, and at Christmas they become essential, served alongside natilla at family gatherings across the country.

The classic cheese is queso costeño, the firm, salty white cheese of the Caribbean coast, which is hard to find abroad; a mix of feta and a mild fresh cheese gets very close. The dough contains no wheat, so they are naturally gluten free, and the method is simple once you respect the one rule, which is to start the frying gently. They are cheap, quick and best eaten within minutes of leaving the pan, which suits a crowd gathered for the start of a race.

The dough

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put both cheeses in the food processor and pulse until they look like fine, damp breadcrumbs, or grate them on the finest side of the box grater. Tip into the large bowl.
  2. Add the tapioca starch, cornstarch, sugar and baking powder and rub everything together with your fingertips for a minute so the starch coats the cheese.
  3. Add the beaten egg and knead in the bowl with your hand. Add the milk a tablespoon at a time, kneading after each, until the dough comes together. Knead for 2 minutes more.
  4. Divide the dough into 15 equal pieces, about 1 1/4 inches (3 cm) across. Roll each one firmly between your palms for 20 to 30 seconds until perfectly round and smooth. Set them on the lined tray.

Frying

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pour the oil into the heavy pot to a depth of at least 3 inches (7.5 cm), no more than a third of the way up. Clip on the thermometer and heat over medium heat to 300°F (150°C).
  2. Lower 5 or 6 balls into the oil one at a time with the slotted spoon. They will sink to the bottom. Leave them alone for 3 to 4 minutes; nudge them gently if they stick.
  3. Turn the heat up a little so the oil climbs slowly to about 340°F (170°C). Keep turning the buñuelos with the spoon every minute or so, for 5 to 7 minutes more, so they color evenly.
  4. Lift them onto the rack to drain. Let the oil cool back to 300°F (150°C) before frying the next batch, then repeat. Turn off the heat and leave the oil to cool completely before moving the pot.

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