China · Drinks and cocktails

Suanmeitang

Chilled sour plum drink with hawthorn and osmanthus

A deep ruby summer cooler of smoked dried plums and hawthorn, simmered slowly, sweetened with rock sugar and scented with osmanthus flowers, served ice cold.

Suanmeitang

Long before bottled soft drinks reached China, a hot afternoon in Beijing called for suanmeitang, sour plum drink. It is made from wumei, plums that have been smoked and dried until black and wrinkled, simmered with dried hawthorn and a little tangerine peel, then sweetened with rock sugar and finished with the honeyed perfume of osmanthus flowers. The result is the color of garnet and tastes sweet, sour, faintly smoky and very slightly salty, a combination that sounds unlikely until the first cold glass settles the matter.

Sour plum drinks have been made in China for many centuries, and the version we know today is associated with the Qing court in Beijing, from where it passed to the city's street stalls and then to every summer kitchen in the north. It is still the drink families make by the pot when the weather turns, and it appears on the table at hotpot and barbecue restaurants as the natural answer to chili. Many households buy the dried ingredients in a ready mixed packet, which is perfectly respectable and saves a hunt.

There is nothing difficult here, only patience: an hour of soaking, the better part of an hour of simmering, and then a proper chill. Make it the day before the race and it will be at its best by the time the cars line up on the grid.

The sour plum infusion

Ingredients

Sweetening, scenting and chilling

Ingredients

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