Cong you bing, the scallion oil pancake, is one of Shanghai's great street breakfasts, sold from griddles on street corners and eaten from a paper sleeve on the way to work. It is made from the simplest of doughs, flour and hot water, but rolled out, spread with scallions and a little seasoned oil, rolled up, coiled like a snail and rolled flat again. In the pan those spirals open into dozens of flaky, chewy layers.

The method is a sort of pastry lamination without the stress, and the result is exactly the kind of thing a crowd at the Shanghai International Circuit would eat by the stack: salty, crisp, portable and impossible to stop eating. Tear them into wedges and serve them with a sharp dipping sauce.

The dough

Ingredients

• 2 cups (250 g) all purpose flour
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) boiling water
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) cold water

Method

1. Put the flour in the bowl. Pour in the boiling water in a slow stream while stirring with chopsticks or a spoon.
2. Stir in the cold water. When cool enough to handle, gather everything into a ball with your hands, adding 1 tablespoon more cold water at a time only if dry flour remains.
3. Knead on a lightly floured counter for 5 minutes: push the dough away with the heel of your hand, fold it back over itself, turn it a quarter turn and repeat. Return it to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap and rest for 30 minutes.

The scallion filling

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) vegetable oil
• 2 tablespoons all purpose flour
• 3/4 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/4 teaspoon five spice powder
• 6 scallions

Method

1. Heat the oil in a small pan over medium heat for 1 minute until hot, then pour it over the flour, salt and five spice in the small bowl and stir.

Shaping and frying

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) vegetable oil

Method

1. Cut the rested dough into 4 equal pieces. Keep three covered while you work.
2. On a lightly oiled counter, roll one piece into a thin rectangle about 12 by 8 inches (30 by 20 cm).
3. Brush a quarter of the oil paste all over the dough, then scatter a quarter of the scallions evenly on top.
4. Starting at a long side, roll the dough up tightly into a long rope. Pinch the ends closed. Coil the rope round on itself like a snail shell and tuck the end underneath. Press it flat with your palm. Repeat with the other pieces, cover and rest for 10 minutes.
5. Gently roll each coil into a round about 7 inches (18 cm) across and 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Roll lightly so the layers are not crushed.
6. Heat 1 tablespoon of the frying oil in the skillet over medium heat. Lay in one pancake, cover and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Turn, cover again and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Uncover, add a little more oil if the pan is dry, and cook 1 minute more on each side.
7. While still hot, push the edges toward the middle with two spatulas, or scrunch the pancake gently between your palms in a towel, to open the layers. Repeat frying with the rest.

Dipping sauce

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) rice vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon sugar

Method

1. Stir the soy sauce, vinegar and sugar together in a small dish while the dough rests.

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