China · Trackside classic

Roujiamo

Xi'an braised pork in a crisp griddled flatbread

Pork belly braised for hours with star anise, cinnamon and caramelized rock sugar, chopped with its juices and a handful of green chili, stuffed into a flaky bun that is crisp outside and soft within.

Roujiamo

Roujiamo is the street food of Xi'an, the old capital of Shaanxi province in China's northwest, and the name is a plain description: meat clipped inside bread. The bread is a round, flat bun with a crisp shell and a soft, slightly chewy middle. The meat is pork belly, braised slowly in a dark, aromatic stock until it can be cut with the side of a cleaver. The vendor splits the bun, chops the meat on a block with a spoonful of the braising liquid and sometimes a little green chili, and stuffs it in so generously that the juices soak into the bread. It is often called the Chinese hamburger, a comparison that flatters the hamburger.

Xi'an has a large Hui Muslim community, and in its famous Muslim quarter the same sandwich is made with beef or lamb, spiced with cumin. Our version is the pork one, which is found on almost every corner of the city, and the variations show the beef route. Both share the idea of a sandwich engineered to be eaten while walking, which makes it ideal for watching a race from the sofa or the grandstand.

The pork can be braised a day ahead, and it improves for the wait. The buns take a little practice: the dough is rolled into a strip and coiled like a snail before being flattened, which gives the faint spiral and flaky layers you see on a good one. They are first browned in a dry pan and then finished in the oven.

The braised pork

Ingredients

The buns (baijimo)

Ingredients

Chopping and filling

Ingredients

More from China

Scroll to Top