China · Signature dish

Mapo doufu

Mapo tofu: soft tofu in spicy, numbing chili bean sauce

Soft cubes of tofu in a glossy red sauce of chili bean paste, fermented black beans and crisp minced beef, finished with a tingling dusting of ground Sichuan pepper.

Mapo doufu

Mapo doufu comes from Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan province, and its name is not flattering. Ma refers to pockmarks and po to an old woman, so the dish is, roughly, pockmarked grandmother's tofu, after Mrs. Chen, whose small eatery near a bridge in the city is credited with it in the second half of the nineteenth century. It went on to become one of the most famous dishes in China and far beyond, because it carries the whole Sichuan flavor in a single bowl: the heat of chili, the tingling numbness of Sichuan pepper, the savory depth of fermented beans, and soft, trembling tofu to carry it all.

The meat is a seasoning rather than the main event. Beef is the traditional choice, fried until crisp and dark before the sauce goes in, though pork is common too. Two Sichuan pantry staples do most of the work, chili bean paste and Sichuan peppercorns, and both keep for months once you have them. Shanghai, home of the Chinese Grand Prix, prefers its food rather sweeter, but a bowl of this over rice has never been turned away there either, and the cooking takes about fifteen minutes.

Steamed rice

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Preparing the tofu and pepper

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The sauce and finishing

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