China · Regional favorite

Shi zi tou

Lion's head pork meatballs with cabbage

Four giant, tender pork meatballs, browned and then simmered gently on a bed of napa cabbage until the broth is sweet and the cabbage silky.

Shi zi tou

Lion's head comes from Yangzhou and Zhenjiang on the Yangtze, a short way upriver from Shanghai, and it arrived in Shanghai's kitchens with the migrants who poured into the city in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The meatballs are enormous, about the size of a fist, and the soft, curling leaves of napa cabbage tucked around them are meant to suggest the mane of a Chinese guardian lion. The legends place its invention in an imperial kitchen of the Sui dynasty; the reliable written record is far later, which has not hurt the story at all.

The meatballs should be so tender they can be broken apart with a spoon, which comes from using pork with plenty of fat, beating water into the mixture and simmering them very gently. It is the sort of dish served at family celebrations and New Year, and it suits a race weekend because it simmers quietly for most of an hour while you attend to more pressing matters on the screen.

The meatballs

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the grated ginger in the small bowl with the cold water and leave for 5 minutes. Pour the water through a small sieve, pressing on the ginger, and discard the fibers.
  2. Put the pork in the mixing bowl with the Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, sugar, salt and white pepper. Stir hard in one direction with a sturdy spoon for 1 minute.
  3. Add the ginger water a tablespoon at a time, stirring hard in the same direction after each, until all of it has been absorbed. Then beat in the egg and cornstarch.
  4. Stir in the water chestnuts and scallions just until evenly mixed.
  5. Wet your hands. Divide the mixture into 4 equal portions. Toss each one gently from one palm to the other about 10 times, which presses out air and firms it up, then shape into a smooth ball about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across.
  6. Heat the oil in the skillet over medium heat. Lay in the meatballs and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the bottom is browned, then very gently roll them with the spatula and a spoon and brown the other side for 3 minutes. They will still be raw inside.

The cabbage and broth

Ingredients

Method

  1. Spread the thick white parts of the cabbage over the bottom of the large pot, then lay the meatballs on top. Tuck the leafy parts around and over the meatballs.
  2. Pour in the stock and soy sauce and add the salt. Bring to a boil over medium high heat.
  3. Turn the heat to low, cover and simmer very gently for 45 minutes. Do not stir; spoon broth over the tops of the meatballs once or twice.
  4. Taste the broth and add salt if it needs it.

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