Jianbing is one of China's best loved street breakfasts, made to order on round griddles at carts across the north of the country and, these days, in cities far beyond it. The cook spreads a thin batter into a wide circle, cracks an egg over it, scatters scallion and cilantro, flips it, paints it with sauces and folds it around a crisp fried cracker called baocui or a stick of youtiao, the fried dough cruller. It takes a minute or so, and the queue is part of the ritual: nobody makes jianbing in advance, because the crunch would not survive the wait.

Tradition traces it to Shandong province, with a legend of soldiers cooking batter on their shields, and the city of Tianjin is known for its own celebrated version, jianbing guozi, made with mung bean flour. Ours follows that pattern, with a mix of mung bean and wheat flour, and fries wonton wrappers to stand in for the cracker, a well known home shortcut. A nonstick pan replaces the street griddle, and the first crepe, as with crepes everywhere, belongs to the cook.

The batter

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup (60 g) mung bean flour
• 1/2 cup (65 g) all purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/4 teaspoon five spice powder
• 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (270 ml) water

Method

1. Whisk the mung bean flour, all purpose flour, salt and five spice together in the bowl. Pour in the water slowly while whisking, and keep whisking for 30 seconds until there are no lumps.
2. Cover the bowl and leave it at room temperature for 20 minutes. Stir before using; if it has thickened, whisk in a tablespoon of water.

The crisp crackers

Ingredients

• 8 square wonton wrappers
• 1 cup (240 ml) neutral oil

Method

1. With a sharp knife, cut two short parallel slits in the middle of each wonton wrapper, without reaching the edges. This stops them puffing into balloons.
2. Heat the oil in the small saucepan over medium heat to 350°F (175°C). Fry the wrappers one or two at a time for 20 to 30 seconds per side, turning with tongs, then drain on the paper towels.

The sauce

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) sweet bean sauce or hoisin sauce
• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) chili garlic sauce or chili oil
• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) water

Method

1. Stir the sweet bean sauce, chili sauce and water together in the small bowl until smooth and loose enough to brush.

Cooking and folding

Ingredients

• 4 teaspoons (20 ml) neutral oil
• 4 large eggs
• 4 scallions
• 1/2 cup (20 g) cilantro
• 4 teaspoons black or white sesame seeds
• 1/4 cup (40 g) zha cai

Method

1. Heat the nonstick skillet over medium heat for 2 minutes. Pour 1 teaspoon of oil into the pan and wipe it over the surface with the paper towel pad, leaving a thin film.
2. Pour in 1/3 cup (80 ml) of batter and immediately lift and tilt the pan in a circle so the batter runs to the edges in a thin, even layer. Put it back on the heat and cook for about 1 minute.
3. Crack an egg onto the middle of the crepe, break the yolk with the spatula and spread the egg quickly over the whole surface. Scatter over a quarter of the scallions, cilantro and sesame seeds. Cook for about 1 minute.
4. Slide the spatula under the crepe and flip it over in one confident movement. Brush the plain side with a quarter of the sauce and scatter over a spoonful of zha cai if using.
5. Lay two crackers in the middle, breaking them to fit. Fold the left and right sides of the crepe over the crackers, then fold the bottom up and the top down to make a thick rectangular parcel. Cook for 20 seconds, then slide it onto a plate and cut it in half.
6. Wipe the pan with a little more oil and repeat with the remaining batter, eggs and fillings. Serve each one as soon as it is folded.

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