China · Sweet finish

Dan tat

Hong Kong egg tarts

Crumbly, buttery little tart shells holding a smooth, glossy, barely set egg custard, the warm treat of Hong Kong's bakeries and tea cafés.

Dan tat

Egg tarts were first sold in Guangzhou in the early twentieth century, when pastry cooks at the city's Western style department stores, under pressure to invent weekly specials for their customers, adapted the English custard tart. They reached Hong Kong in the 1940s, at first only in smart Western restaurants, and in the 1960s the cha chaan teng, the city's busy, democratic tea cafés, made them an everyday pleasure. In 2014 the craft of making them was added to Hong Kong's inventory of intangible cultural heritage, an honor very few pastries can claim.

The Hong Kong tart is not the Portuguese style tart of Macau, with its blistered, caramelized top. It is paler and smoother: a delicate custard of eggs, sugar syrup and evaporated milk in a shortcrust shell, though some bakeries use flaky puff pastry instead. The secret is gentleness, a custard mixed without froth, strained twice and baked at a moderate heat so the surface stays glassy. They are best eaten warm, two at a time, which conveniently matches the number of drivers in each team.

The pastry shells

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The custard

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Baking

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