China · Regional favorite

Char siu

Cantonese honey glazed roast pork with rice and greens

Strips of pork shoulder marinated overnight in hoisin, red fermented bean curd and five spice, roasted until the edges char and lacquered with honey, sliced over rice with bright green choy sum.

Char siu

Char siu means fork roast, after the long forks once used to hold strips of seasoned pork over a fire, and it is the pride of Cantonese cooking in Guangdong and Hong Kong. Walk past any roast meat shop in Guangzhou or Kowloon and you will see the strips hanging in the window beside glossy ducks and slabs of crackling pork, their edges blackened, their surface shining like varnish. Ask for char siu fan and the cook takes one down, chops it on a thick round block and fans the slices over rice with a ladle of sauce, all in less time than it takes to pay.

The flavor is sweet, savory and gently spiced, and the famous red edge originally came from red fermented bean curd and red yeast rice; most shops now use food coloring. We use the bean curd, which gives a deeper, almost cheesy savoriness and a natural rosy tint, and leave the coloring as an option. The best cut is pork shoulder, which has enough fat marbled through it to stay juicy under the high heat that chars the outside.

This is very much a dish for home ovens, and it rewards planning: the marinade does its work overnight, and the roasting takes under an hour. Any slices that survive the meal make the best fried rice you will ever eat, which is a strong argument for roasting more than you need.

The marinated pork

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Roasting and glazing

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Rice, greens and sauce

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