When the markets of central Chile fill with fresh shelling beans and sweet corn at the turn of spring into summer, porotos granados go on the stove. The name describes the beans themselves: granados are pods picked once the beans inside are full and plump, distinct from the green beans eaten whole. They are simmered with squash until it melts, then thickened with grated sweet corn and finished with a handful of basil, a combination of beans, corn and squash with deep roots in the farming kitchens of the center and south of the country.

There are two main ways to add the corn. Con mazamorra means the kernels are grated into a creamy pulp and stirred through, making the stew thick and soft; con pilco means whole kernels, for a looser, brothier pot. This recipe takes the mazamorra road, which is the more luxurious of the two. Chileans serve it with ensalada chilena, a salad of tomato and onion so thinly sliced and so well soaked that the onion loses its bite, and with a chili sauce on the table.

It is vegetarian, cheap and quietly spectacular, which may explain why it is so often described in Chile as the star of the summer table.

The beans and squash

Ingredients

• 4 cups (600 g) fresh shelled cranberry or borlotti beans
• 1 lb (450 g) butternut squash or zapallo
• 6 cups (1.4 liters) water
• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) sunflower or olive oil
• 1 large onion
• 2 garlic cloves
• 2 teaspoons sweet paprika (ají de color)
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

Method

1. Put the beans in the large pot with the water. Bring to a boil over high heat, skim off any foam with a spoon, then lower the heat, half cover and simmer gently for 20 minutes.
2. Add the squash cubes and simmer for 15 minutes more, stirring once or twice. Add a cup of hot water if the liquid drops below the beans.
3. While the beans cook, heat the oil in the small frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, for 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the paprika and cumin, if using.
4. Scrape the onion mixture and all its oil into the pot of beans and stir well. Simmer for 5 minutes.

The mazamorra (grated corn) and finishing

Ingredients

• 4 ears of fresh sweet corn
• 1 1/2 teaspoons fine salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup (20 g) fresh basil leaves

Method

1. Stand the box grater in the wide bowl. Hold an ear of corn by one end and rub it firmly up and down the large holes, turning it as you go, until only the cob is left. Then scrape the cob with the back of a knife to get the last of the milky juice. Repeat with all the ears. If using frozen corn, pulse it in a food processor instead.
2. Add the corn pulp to the pot and stir well. Simmer over low heat for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring often and scraping the bottom, because grated corn sticks easily.
3. Stir in the salt and pepper, then taste and add more salt if needed. Turn off the heat and stir in the basil. If the stew is very thick, loosen it with a little hot water; it should flow slowly from the ladle.

Ensalada chilena (tomato and onion salad)

Ingredients

• 1 white or sweet onion
• 4 ripe tomatoes
• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) olive or sunflower oil
• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) lemon juice or red wine vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt
• 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro or parsley

Method

1. Put the sliced onion in the medium bowl, cover with cold water and add a pinch of salt. Leave it for at least 20 minutes, then drain it in the sieve, squeeze it gently and pat dry.
2. Score a small cross in the base of each tomato, plunge them into boiling water for 20 seconds, then into cold water, and pull off the skins. Cut them into thin wedges or half moons.
3. Combine the tomatoes and onion in the bowl, add the oil, lemon juice or vinegar and salt, and toss gently. Scatter with cilantro or parsley if using.

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