Canada · Sweet finish

Tire d'érable sur la neige

Maple taffy rolled on snow

Pure maple syrup boiled until thick, poured in ribbons over packed snow or crushed ice, and rolled up on wooden sticks into chewy, amber lollipops that taste of nothing but maple.

Tire d'érable sur la neige

Each spring, when the days turn mild but the nights still freeze, the sap begins to run in the maple woods of Quebec, and families head out to the cabane à sucre, the sugar shack, for a long, hearty meal and a party. The finale is always the same. Hot syrup, boiled down past the point of syrup, is poured in strips across a long trough of clean snow; it firms on contact, and everyone winds it up on a wooden stick and eats it standing in the cold. The French names are tire d'érable or tire sur la neige; in English Canada it is maple taffy, and across the border in New England, sugar on snow.

The only ingredient is maple syrup, and the only tool that matters is a thermometer. Boiled to the right point, the syrup sets into a soft, stretchy toffee; too little and it melts into the snow, too much and it hardens into candy that pulls at your fillings. Snow is traditional, but a tray of finely crushed ice from the freezer works all year round, which is how this late winter ritual can make an appearance on a sunny race weekend.

The snow bed

Ingredients

The maple taffy

Ingredients

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