Canada · Regional favorite

Pâté chinois

Quebec beef, corn and mashed potato pie

Seasoned ground beef, a layer of sweet corn and a lid of buttery mashed potato, baked until golden: the supper that Quebec families grow up on.

Pâté chinois

Every Quebec kitchen knows the order of the layers, and plenty of Quebecers can recite it as a single phrase: steak, blé d'Inde, patates, meaning ground beef, corn, potatoes. Pâté chinois is the province's answer to shepherd's pie, with the important addition of a layer of corn, usually creamed corn and often some whole kernels too. Food historians place its birth among working class French Canadian families in Montreal early in the twentieth century, and its spread during the hard years of the 1930s, when a pound of ground beef had to go a long way.

The name means Chinese pie, and nobody has convincingly explained why. One popular story credits cooks feeding Chinese railway workers, another a town called China in Maine; the historians who have looked hardest find the evidence for both rather thin, and we leave the question politely open. Its standing is not in doubt. When the Montreal newspaper Le Devoir asked people to name the national dish of Quebec in 2007, pâté chinois won. It is cheap, generous and even better reheated, which suits a long Montreal race weekend very well.

The mashed potato topping

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The beef layer

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The corn layer and baking

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