Canada · Regional favorite

Montreal bagels

Small honey boiled sesame bagels

Small, dense, honey sweet bagels with a big hole, boiled in honey water, rolled thickly in sesame seeds and baked very hot until glossy and crackling.

Montreal bagels

Montreal's bagels came with Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe in the early twentieth century, and the city's two most famous bakeries, Fairmount and St Viateur, have been rolling them by hand and baking them in wood fired ovens for decades, through the night and every day of the year. Both claim to be the older; neither seems likely to give way. A Montreal bagel is smaller, thinner and sweeter than its New York cousin, with an egg and honey dough, a larger hole and a dip in boiling honey water before it goes into the oven.

The result is chewy and dense with a lacquered, slightly charred crust, best eaten warm from the bag with nothing at all, or with cream cheese and smoked salmon if you are feeling expansive. A home oven cannot match a wood fire, but turned as high as it will go, it does a creditable impression. Bake a dozen on race morning and the house will smell like the Mile End at dawn.

The dough

Ingredients

Method

  1. Whisk the flour, yeast and salt in the large bowl. In a jug, whisk the warm water, egg, honey and oil. Pour the wet into the dry and stir until a shaggy dough forms.
  2. Knead on a lightly floured counter for 10 minutes, or with the dough hook on medium low for 7 minutes. To knead by hand, push the dough away with the heel of your hand, fold it back, turn it a quarter turn and repeat.
  3. Put the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with the towel and leave in a warm place for about 1 hour.

Shaping

Ingredients

Method

  1. Press the air out of the dough and cut it into 12 equal pieces, about 2 1/2 oz (70 g) each.
  2. On an unfloured counter, roll each piece under your palms into a rope about 9 inches (23 cm) long, a little thinner at the ends.
  3. Wrap a rope around the back of your four fingers so the ends overlap by about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in your palm. Press the overlap together and roll it back and forth on the counter under your palm to seal.
  4. Set the bagels on a parchment lined baking sheet, cover with the towel and rest for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to its highest setting, at least 475°F (245°C), with racks in the upper and lower thirds.

Boiling, seeding and baking

Ingredients

Method

  1. Bring the water and honey to a boil in the wide pot, then lower to a steady simmer. Spread the sesame seeds in the shallow dish. Line the second baking sheet with parchment.
  2. Lower 3 or 4 bagels into the water. Simmer for 30 seconds, turn with the slotted spoon and simmer 30 seconds more.
  3. Lift them out, let them drain for a second and drop them straight into the sesame seeds. Turn and press so they are thickly coated on both sides. Lay on the lined sheets, six per sheet.
  4. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, swapping the sheets between racks and turning them around halfway.
  5. Cool on the wire rack for at least 10 minutes.

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