Brazil · Sweet finish

Quindim

Glossy golden egg yolk and coconut custards

Little baked custards of egg yolk, sugar and coconut, turned out to show a glassy, sunflower yellow top over a chewy coconut base: one of Brazil's best loved sweets.

Quindim

Quindim is a small, upturned dome of intense yellow, so glossy it looks lacquered, with a dense, chewy layer of coconut underneath. It is made from almost nothing: egg yolks, sugar, grated coconut and a little butter, baked gently in a water bath. The recipe is a meeting of two traditions. Portugal brought its love of sweets built on egg yolks and sugar; in the northeast of colonial Brazil, where sugarcane was the great crop and coconut palms flourished, coconut joined the mix, very probably at the hands of enslaved Africans working in the kitchens. Even the name points to Africa: it is traced to Kikongo, a Bantu language of Central Africa.

It is a familiar sight in Brazilian bakeries, usually in neat rows of little individual domes, and it is also baked as one large ring for parties, when it goes by the grander name of quindão. The ingredients are cheap and the method is simple, but the details matter: strain the yolks, keep the oven gentle and let the water bath do its work.

The only real problem with quindim is what to do with a dozen egg whites. We suggest meringues, made during qualifying, for the following day.

Preparing the molds

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The custard

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Baking and unmolding

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