Brazil · Regional favorite

Feijão tropeiro

Muleteers' beans tossed with toasted cassava flour, bacon, sausage, egg and greens

Firm, whole beans tossed in a hot pan with crisp bacon, browned sausage, soft scrambled egg, garlic and ribbons of collard greens, then bound with toasted cassava flour into a savory, crumbly heap: the travelling food of Minas Gerais.

Feijão tropeiro

Feijão tropeiro takes its name from the tropeiros, the muleteers who drove trains of pack animals across the interior of colonial Brazil, carrying goods across the south and southeast. On the road they needed food that kept, so their beans were cooked almost dry and mixed with cassava flour, dried meat and cured pork fat, so that it would not spoil on the road. The dish settled most firmly in Minas Gerais, where it is now a point of regional pride, and it is cooked too across São Paulo, Goiás, Paraná and Mato Grosso, all old routes of the mule trains.

This is not a bean stew. The beans are cooked until just tender, drained thoroughly, and then fried with bacon, sausage, egg and garlic before cassava flour goes in to soak up the fat and juices. The result is loose, crumbly and deeply savory, closer to a warm bean salad crossed with stuffing than to anything in a bowl. It was designed to fuel people who spent the whole day on the move, and it has lost none of that talent.

It is a generous side for grilled meat, and a complete meal with white rice and a few slices of orange. The beans can be cooked a day ahead, which leaves only 20 minutes of frying and tossing on race weekend.

The beans

Ingredients

The pan

Ingredients

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