Loomi are limes that have been dried in the sun until they turn hard, hollow and brown to almost black, and in Bahrain they are everywhere. They are tucked into the rice of machboos, ground into marinades and floated in stews, and the same jar that seasons dinner also makes a drink. Cracked open and simmered in water, the limes give up a tea that is sharply sour, faintly smoky and surprisingly perfumed, a little like lemonade that has spent a winter by the fire. A spoonful of sugar or honey rounds it out, and a few threads of saffron are a favorite flourish.

It would be unfair to call it Bahrain's alone. The tea is poured right around the Gulf, Kuwait is particularly fond of it, and in Iraq the limes themselves go by noomi Basra, after the southern port city. Many families drink it hot in the cooler months and swear by it for an unsettled stomach. It uses no tea leaves and no milk, which makes it the sharp, clear opposite of the sweet milk tea Bahrain also loves, and the right cup to steady the nerves when the Sakhir floodlights come on and the lights go out.

Preparing the limes

Ingredients

• 4 dried black limes (loomi)

Method

1. Put the dried limes in the sieve and rinse them under cold running water for a few seconds, rubbing them with your fingers to remove any dust from drying and storage. Pat them dry with a towel.
2. Put one lime at a time in the mortar and give it one or two firm taps with the pestle, just enough to split it into three or four pieces. If you have no mortar, wrap the limes in the kitchen towel on a board and hit each one once with the rolling pin. Do not crush them to powder; you want pieces you can strain out easily.
3. Shake the pieces over a plate so the loose seeds fall out, then use the tip of the teaspoon or the knife to flick out any that are stuck. Throw the seeds away. A few stray seeds will do no harm, but most should go.

The hot tea

Ingredients

• 5 cups (1.2 liters) water
• 3 to 4 tablespoons (40 to 50 g) sugar
• 6 to 8 threads saffron

Method

1. Put the cracked lime pieces and the water in the saucepan and set it over high heat. Bring the water to a full boil; this takes about 6 to 8 minutes.
2. Turn the heat down to low so the water bubbles gently, put the lid on slightly ajar, and simmer for 15 minutes. Then dip in a spoon, let it cool for a moment and taste. If you would like it stronger, simmer for 5 to 10 minutes more, tasting again as you go. Do not simmer it at a hard boil or for much longer than 30 minutes, or it turns bitter.
3. If you are using sugar, stir in 3 tablespoons and the saffron threads now and simmer for 1 more minute so the sugar dissolves. Taste and add the last tablespoon if it still makes you wince. If you are using honey, take the pan off the heat first, then stir it in with the saffron.
4. Set the sieve over the jug or teapot and pour the tea through it. Press the lime pieces lightly with the back of the spoon to release the last of the liquid, then discard them. Pour into small glasses or cups and serve straight away.

The chilled version

Ingredients

• 1 batch hot loomi tea
• plenty ice cubes
• 4 thin slices fresh lime
• 1 cup (240 ml) cold sparkling water

Method

1. Pour the strained hot tea into the heatproof pitcher and leave it on the counter for about 30 minutes, until it is no longer steaming. Cover it and move it to the fridge for at least 2 hours, or overnight.
2. Taste the cold tea. Cold drinks taste less sweet than hot ones, so if it seems too sour, stir in a spoonful of sugar dissolved in a spoonful of hot water. If you like it lighter and fizzy, plan to top each glass with a splash of sparkling water.
3. Fill the tall glasses with ice, pour the tea over it to three quarters full, and top up with sparkling water if using. Tuck a slice of fresh lime into each glass and serve at once.

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