Bahrain · Trackside classic

Khubz jebn

Soft oven bread folded around melted cheese spread

Soft, puffy yeast bread spread thickly with creamy cheese, folded into a half moon pocket and baked on a scorching stone until blistered outside and molten within.

Khubz jebn

Every Bahraini neighborhood has its bakery, a hot, narrow room built around a clay tannour, where rounds of dough are pressed onto the oven's blistering inner wall and peeled off moments later. Plain bread is the main business, but the one people queue for is khubz jebn, cheese bread. The dough is smeared with soft, spreadable cheese, folded over into a pocket and baked until it puffs and blisters, then handed over too hot to hold and eaten anyway, often with a cup of sweet tea.

The cheese is not grand. Bakeries use the mild, creamy spread that comes in jars across the Gulf, and that is exactly right: it melts into a smooth, salty layer that soaks into the soft crumb. A mix of cream cheese and a little grated mild cheese gets you there at home.

No one has a tannour in a suburban kitchen, but a very hot oven with a pizza stone or an upturned heavy baking sheet makes a fine impersonation. The bread is at its best in the first five minutes, so time it for the moment the grid forms up.

The dough

Ingredients

The cheese filling

Ingredients

Shaping and baking

Ingredients

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