Jireesh, pronounced yireesh in the Bahraini dialect, is coarsely cracked wheat cooked with meat, tomato and spices, then stirred and beaten until the grains collapse into a thick, savory porridge. It belongs to the family of old Gulf grain dishes that also includes harees, and it is a fixture of Ramadan, family gatherings and cold winter evenings. In Bahrain it is usually made with chicken or lamb and finished with a topping of onions fried with spices and a touch of dried lime.

It is the definition of comfort food, and it is unusually forgiving: it is supposed to look rough and homely, and a little extra time on the stove only improves it. Sakhir's Grand Prix has usually been a spring night race, and this is the kind of bowl you want in your lap while it runs.

The jireesh

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons (30 g) ghee or oil
• 1 medium onion
• 3 garlic cloves
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 2 medium tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 1/2 lb (680 g) bone in chicken thighs
• 1 1/2 cups (250 g) jireesh (cracked wheat)
• 1 loomi (dried black lime)
• 1 1/2 teaspoons fine salt
• 6 cups (1.4 liters) hot water

Spiced onion topping

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons (30 g) ghee
• 1 large onion
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
• 1 teaspoon sugar

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