Bahrain · Sweet finish

Halwa Bahraini

Saffron and rose water starch sweet

A glossy, jewel toned sweet of starch, caramelized sugar, ghee, saffron, cardamom and rose water, stirred until it shines and studded with nuts.

Halwa Bahraini

Bahraini halwa is the island's most famous sweet, wobbly and glossy, amber or deep red, fragrant with saffron, cardamom and rose water and scattered with nuts. It is made by stirring starch, sugar and ghee together for a long time in a large pot, traditionally over a wood fire, until it turns from a cloudy liquid into a shining, elastic mass. Gulf halwa is believed to have traveled to the region along the trade routes from Zanzibar and Oman, and in Bahrain one family of halwa makers, the Showaiters, has been making it for generations; their shops are as much a part of a visit to the island as the souk.

Making it at home is a rewarding, rather meditative exercise in stirring. The result is served in small spoonfuls with Arabic coffee or tea, and a little goes a long way, which is just as well after the effort.

The halwa

Ingredients

Method

  1. Whisk the cornstarch with 2 1/2 cups (600 ml) of the water in the medium bowl until there are no lumps. Crumble the saffron into the rose water.
  2. Put 1/2 cup (100 g) of the sugar in the small saucepan over medium heat. Leave it until it starts to melt at the edges, then swirl the pan (do not stir) until it is all melted and amber, 5 to 7 minutes. Take off the heat and carefully pour in the remaining 1/2 cup (120 ml) water; it will hiss and spit. Return to low heat and stir until smooth.
  3. Whisk the starch mixture again and pour it into the large saucepan with the remaining 1 1/2 cups (300 g) sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, for 5 to 8 minutes.
  4. Stir in the caramel and the food coloring, if using. Keep stirring over medium low heat for 10 minutes.
  5. Add the ghee 2 tablespoons at a time, stirring and folding each addition in until it is absorbed before adding the next. Keep stirring for 15 to 20 minutes after the last addition.
  6. Stir in the saffron rose water, cardamom, nutmeg and almonds and cook 3 to 5 minutes more.
  7. Spoon into the greased dish or small bowls, smooth the top, and scatter with pistachios. Leave at room temperature for at least 2 hours.

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