Bahrain · Sweet finish

Gers ogaili

Saffron and cardamom sponge cake

A tall, golden ring of whisked egg sponge scented with saffron, cardamom and rose water, baked in a sesame lined pan so it turns out wearing a toasted, nutty crust.

Gers ogaili

Gers ogaili is the cake a Gulf household reaches for when someone says they will just stop by for tea. Eggs and sugar are whisked until pale and airy, then perfumed with saffron, cardamom and rose water and baked in a ring pan, which is why it is sometimes called a perfumed cake. Gers, from the Arabic qurs, means a disc or round loaf, and the cake comes to the table as a handsome golden ring, dusted with sugar and cut into generous slices. It is moist, light and fragrant rather than rich, which is exactly why a second slice never feels like a decision.

Kuwait counts it among its classic sweets, and Bahrain makes it just as proudly; Bahraini food guides list it among the island's traditional desserts, and recipes for it fill Bahraini home cooking pages. Those Bahraini guides single out one detail worth borrowing: the pan is greased with a little tahini and showered with sesame seeds before the batter goes in, so the outside bakes into a toasted, faintly nutty shell. The method is simple, but the whisking is the whole game, so read the engineer's note before you start.

The sesame lined pan

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The cake

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The finish

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