In Azerbaijan tea is not a drink so much as a form of hospitality. It is poured the moment a guest sits down, offered before and after every meal and served for hours in the chaykhana, the tea house. It comes strong, clear and hot in armudu, small pear shaped glasses whose narrow waist is said to keep the tea warm, with lump sugar, lemon and little dishes of homemade preserve called mürəbbə. A sprig of thyme, mint or a few drops of rosewater in the pot are common, and thyme tea is especially loved.

Tea is also how an Azerbaijani meal ends, so it is the natural way to finish any plate in this chapter. It is a fine companion to a long afternoon in Baku, which, given how often the race there produces a late twist, may well need a second pot.

The tea

Ingredients

• 3 1/2 cups (840 ml) fresh cold water
• 4 teaspoons loose black tea
• 3 or 4 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 lemon
• sugar cubes
• mürəbbə or whole fruit preserves

More from Azerbaijan