Azerbaijan · Trackside classic

Şorqoğal

Round layered pastries with a fennel, cumin and turmeric filling

Golden, many layered buttery rounds with a savory heart of toasted flour, fennel, cumin and turmeric, glazed with saffron yolk and scattered with poppy seeds.

Şorqoğal

Şorqoğal is the savory star of the Novruz table, the spring new year that Azerbaijan celebrates with more pastry than any one household could reasonably eat. A buttery yeast dough is rolled thin, layered with melted butter, rolled up and cut, then each piece is flattened around a spoonful of toasted flour cooked in butter with fennel, anise, cumin, black pepper and turmeric. The tops are brushed with egg yolk tinted with saffron and finished with poppy seeds, and they come out of the oven round and yellow on purpose: the pastry is said to stand for the sun, just as the crescent şəkərbura beside it stands for the moon.

Şor means salty, which is how you tell it apart from its sweet cousins on the same platter. Today they are made all year as a breakfast or a snack with a glass of black tea, and they travel in a paper bag better than almost anything else in the Azerbaijani repertoire. The layers shatter, the filling smells of fennel and warm spice, and one is never quite enough, which makes them dangerous at a grandstand picnic.

The dough

Ingredients

The spiced filling

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Layering, shaping and baking

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